Could anyone please help with an installation problem with this version? I'm installing on a new SSD and keep getting locked in a never-ending rebooting loop which I'm guessing is the W11 equivalent of a BSoD. It says… Recovery Your PC couldn't turn off properly The operating system on your PC failed to turn off properly and needs to be repaired. Error code: 0xc0000001 You'll need to use recovery tools blah blah blah Press ENTER to try again Press F8 for Startup Settings any ideas please? I started the install routine from USB and everything was going fine as per the installation video until I got to this point. I have no idea what stage of installation to SSD it's up to because it doesn't display progress, just crashes out everytime and says there's this problem without giving me any information at all about it. I've only seen as far as the first screenshot posted above by Glenn. Have never seen the second screenshot with all the menu items to choose from. It goes into full BSoD Recovery mode before then. Edit: Given up on W11 now and trying Last10 v1809 LTSC x64 2020.02 instead and encountering exactly the same error behaviour with that too. Obviously my computer doesn't seem to like the install scripts these LastOS are written with. Can anyone suggest some things to look for? The computer is more than capable. Has 16GB RAM installed. 120GB SSD etc. I've used Rufus 3.22 to write the image onto a Kingston 64GB USB stick. All brand new or newly refurbished equipment. At this point, unless I can get some idea of why the LastOS installs won't progress past about 65% of the first installation routine before devolving into BSoD, it's looking like I have to go back to Winborg 7 again as the last reliable working OS.
I'm running this version now without issues. When I look up that error code this stands out to me: Unplug All External Devices As we always say, the most straightforward fixes are often the most neglected. If you have tried your hand at the above methods (and failed), before you move on to more complex solutions, we recommend you try out this simple fix first: unplug all your external devices and then plug them in again. External devices can sometimes stir up errors in your Windows. It happens for a variety of reasons: maybe the driver didn’t get installed well the first time, some USB port issues occurred, and so on. So, unplug the devices, save your keyboard and mouse, and see if you still face the Windows error code 0xc0000001. Also wait for Glenn to give his expert opinion as I'm just not sure what other issues could create that issue.
Thank you for the suggestion. The computer is newly restored so the only "external devices" connected would be as you suggest, the USB stick the ISO is mounted on, the keyboard, the mouse and the monitor and that's pretty much it. The monitor obviously I can't do without to see the errors. I've installed Winborg 7 on it for now, but did so on only half the SSD (a 60GB partition) so that if a solution comes up, I can try a W11/10 install on the other half in another 60GB partition and make it dual boot
I have to unplug my usb drive before first reboot, then plug it back in after windows loads up. Then I run the AllMenu.exe and you should see the first button: Install Apps (ssWPI) and that will get you to the software page. Also please have all necessary drivers ready at your disposal because I usually had a few missing at first
I can say for a fact, many PCs designed for windows 7 or 8 will need the latest BIOS installed to work with windows 10+ this is a known problem and even in some cases you have to disable the onboard sound card and or network hardware in BIOS. This allows you to install and put the drivers on you need. On top of this often the 3d graphics card will not allow win 10 or 11 to even boot, you may need to update it or use a different card (I've had NVIDIA and amd(ati) cards that were just too old for win 10). The final solution is to stick to the version of windows that the system is designed for (I still have to Install XP on really old laptops and PCs), I am leaning more towards Linux for older machines nowdays, especially with WINE v9 and proton supporting windows games and apps, but I understand why some people need windows. Lastly, some PCs still need HDD controller drivers (eg Intel Rapid Storage Drivers)
Was this installation performed on a clean hard drive ie formatted hard drive? Is the HDD large enough? if there are reminints of an old OS that can cause issues as the drivers would be too old or incompatable for win10+ Do a search for "Error code: 0xc0000001" and check out some of the links that describe how to fix it. check that your system meets the hardware requirements here
Hardware requirements don't mean anything, it is CPU features that matter and ANYTHING after dual core can handle win 11 given enough time to try the fixes I mention above, I've installed over 300 laptops and PCs with Last11 last year and only 2 best me, one was a early athlon the other didn't have a CPU feature that even win 7 needs
Download a vanilla windows 11 22H2 and install it then use the LastOS stuff to do what you want to do as for settings, reg tweaks, ssWPI, etc .., ( just find if it works ) , also make sure TPM and Secure boot is disable as in cases these will make a install a headache, also make sure AHCI is the main hard drive setting in BIOS. Some mainboards are a pain in general to act correctly for a clean install. Since the system is all new to you something might work/find the trick for future installs. EDIT :- Well that will not work as all the releases use a windows 10 PE boot so using a vanilla windows 11 22H2 will have the dreaded This pc does not meet blah blah crap and will not install, SO so you need 2 .iso files 1 windows 10 and windows 11, take the install.wim or install.esd from win 11 and put it into the windows 10 overwriting the windows 10 install.wim or install.esd make sure there is only 1 install.wim or install.esd in the windows 10, save it and use that to see if it works without issues. May not want to do this but this is what I do and it has worked in many cases where I ran into headaches, but once I find what causes it then I can go back to WHAT I WANTED TO DO in the first place LOL EDIT :- 2 Make sure the CRC match, could be a corrupted or unfinished download type issue, I have seen this before also.
The PE boots fine, he said he gets the first screenshot. Meaning he can use WinNTSetup from the PE to install any install.wim or install.esd, also that the chip supports win 10 and 11. He also mentioned he used Rufus to make the USB, which means he is not having any TPM or secure boot issues as the CPU must support everything to work with win 10 and 11, so the only things left are the disk he is installing it to is MBR and not GPT with secure boot and TPM is enabled and it can only boot GPT, or that he has secure boot disabled and has it set to GPT instead of MBR. But I still suspect that it's a Graphics, sound, network or Controller Chip (HDD drivers) issue, else like you said BIOS is set to RAID instead of AHCI or even IDE (runs slower than AHCI). The best bet is to update BIOS which will reset to default options as an added bonus and in a lot of cases, fixes any crashing during boot, but they have many options to try now (plenty of googling and YouTube to learn what the hell we mean by all these technical terms).
Thank you for the suggestion. I admit I did not even consider removing the USB because I can't tell at what point the install routine no longer requires access to it and I didn't want to corrupt the installation by removing it pre-emptively too early. Now, if there had been a message on the screen saying "Please remove the USB from the drive and then press any key to reboot so the installation can continue", then I would have removed it.
All good suggestions. I will search for and update the BIOS today. It doesn't have any special sound card, but it does have a GigaByte GV-N450-1GI video card which I have also restored with new cooling fan and thermal paste setup to virtually new condition.
Yes The target SSD is 128GB capacity. I partitioned it in half though because the aim is for a dual boot system W10/11+W7, so the target partition was 61022MB. The instructions for Last11 Lite say it needs 30GB. MoBo: ASUS P7P55D-E LX CPU: Intel i5-750Mhz RAM: G.SKILL RipjawsZ F3-17000CL9Q-16GBZH Video: Gigabyte GV-N450-1GI It may be an old computer, but it should have more than enough borlz to run W10. It's not an old bunky XP machine from 2 decades ago. I have one of those too which is also perfectly reliable running XP, but I wouldn't try installing W10 on it.
The CPU is an Intel i5-750Mhz. Here's a photo of the actual one installed before I put it in It handles Winborg 7 no dramas at all
The computer in current configuration does not support UEFI boot from USB. I cannot find that option anywhere in current BIOS to turn it on, so I cannot use GPT format of USB as those two go together according to Rufus. If you have no UEFI as an option, then you have no GPT option either. I'm sure it will support GPT drives formatted that way manually, but it's just not new enough for UEFI.
Unfortunately I can't update the BIOS. It is already at v1701 (27/09/2012) which is the last one available. Other info reported says Processor Type: Intel Core i5 CPU 750 @ 2.67GHz Speed: 2666MHz System Memory Usable Size: 16383MB In BIOS I've changed the Configure SATA as setting from IDE to AHCI. It was never set to RAID and this is the only place I can find a RAID setting as an option. EDIT: Making this change caused the computer to enter BSoD immediately upon boot and then enter an endless rebooting loop. Changed back to IDE again. There is another setting under Onboard Devices Controller called Marvell Storage Controller and this is set to IDE. The only other options are Disabled or AHCI. EDIT: I changed this to AHCI to match the SATA configuration, but this just caused BSoD. Changed back to IDE.
Yes, ACHI is what you want to put it at for SSD, but you can't do this once the OS is already installed (there are workaround for that, but nvm). I would think you should be able to install Win11 on this hardware. Myself I have a Z77 mobo, and even though I can use both GPT and MBR I always use MBR. When you format the USB drive with Rufus, you can choose MBR. It shouldn't matter if you plug your USB drive into the 2.0 ports vs the (blue) 3.0 ports, as the Win10 PE included (and subsequent drivers in the install.esd) would have the required drivers to use either USB 2 or 3. But you can try either anyway, to see if it makes a difference. You could try to reset the BIOS settings to default, just to rule out any conflicting settings. You can also take the battery out, as mentioned, and place it back in to achieve the same. Then after rebooting, enter BIOS again and set SATA to ACHI mode. Reboot again, then try to load from USB drive to install. Of course this would now be complicated by wanting to achieve dual-boot. My suggestion is to backup the Win7 install with one of the tools included in the PE (Active@ Disk Image or Terabyte Image) so that you don't lose the install. Meaning, save that backup image to another drive entirely (either on a portable HDD/SDD via USB, or if you have a second drive in the system (not partition, but drive) save it to that. Then wipe (not wipe, but delete partition(s) on) the primary active drive (your SSD) from the PE, create partition and format it (you can this with included Partition Manager soft in the PE), and then try to install Last11 again.
There's no problem with needing to backup the Winborg 7 installation. I've done nothing about configuring it. I can wipe this as many times as necessary and repeat the OS installation as many times as necessary until it works. There is nothing on this computer that needs to be kept or backed up. If AHCI is better, then no problem, I'll just wipe the SSD, swap it over in BIOS and reinstall the OS again.
If that doesn't work, we can pass you download links to another Last11 iso, just to rule out it is nothing specific to this iso you're trying to install. Meaning, it shouldn't make a difference, but if we could replicate the problem with another iso built along the same lines we could at least rule out some things.
Ohh yes I did not know that it was a older system, but yes make sure to do AHCI then do a clean install see what happens. Also with it being a older Intel board ( this is just a out of the brain question ) would it need a SATA driver like the IASTORE type that intel used back in that time? <- Not sure on this just a Q to anyone that it might be something. Trouba and I was doing RAID back in like 2010 ish and we had to have drivers at boot up or there was no install happening, I know that this may not be the case but just throwing some old info in the pot LOL. EDIT :- If that fails do a windows 7 install and see if it will upgrade to windows 10/11, yes I know again more steps but something will surly give sooner or later or you will find the limitations.
Here is the specs on that CPU ( for general knowledge ) - https://www.intel.com/content/www/u...ocessor-8m-cache-2-66-ghz/specifications.html The mainboard and graphics card has no drivers for windows 10/11 at all.
OK, I've wiped the SSD of Winborg 7, re-made the USB with Rufus to the Last11 Lite ISO, changed the BIOS settings for both SATA configuration and J-Micron eSATA/PATA Controller to AHCI and now I'm reinstalling W11 from the USB. All seems to progress normally as intended. The USB is inserted into a USB 2.0 header only because the blue USB 3.0 headers aren't recognised or useable until an OS is installed to provide the drivers for them. As suggested, at the first reboot after copying files to the SSD from the USB I pulled the USB stick out. The installation then continued for a while until… same BSoD and looping reboot again same as before. Now after a couple of reboots both ending in BSoD I'm looking at a screen that looks like this: So is the answer here that I've found the one computer combination out of Glenn's 300 laptops and PC's that simply won't take W11?
Did you try to disable the Network and Sound in BIOS and do you have a different Graphics Card you can use and Disable the onboard one too? I just think it's a hardware conflict and if you have the latest BIOS and the hardware disabled as much as possible, then it should work. It is NOT a disk controller error as it wouldn't get to the BSOD and reboot if thats the case, it would say insert system disk and press any key to boot. It HAS to be a hardware conflict and disabling as much as you can from BIOS and having just the essentials should get it installed, then you can figure out what's the cause after the install completes. You can then choose how to get the hardware back you need. I'd be confident that it's graphics related followed closely by Network hardware and Sound being the last major show stopper for me, after that is Firewire/Serial/COM/USB3 ports and other weird hardware that yours most likely doesn't even have. If you can capture the BSOD information before it reboots I may be able to tell you exactly what it is rebooting it and stopping you. -EDIT- Oh Disable your USB 3 ports etc as well, like I said, the less you have enabled in the BIOS the better, then you can turn them back on until BSOD tells you what is not compatible. In many cases once the OS installs you can install chipset or drivers for the hardware and it wont even BSOD anymore.
I just read your motherboard becomes unstable if you use double sided memory in it, you need to use single sided memory (must be a hardware issue with that motherboard), so if you happen to have access to different ram sticks to try in it, it may just work without any other changes to anything. BTW the error shown when the ram is glitchy is IRQ not equal to or less than blah blah blah. also BTW, the reason Win 7 doesn't crash with ram and win 10+ would is due to the memory management controlled by the kernel (yes windows has one too ), it would be enabling new features that should work, but like I said BIOS updates may have stopped for the motherboard before the double sided ram issue was fixed. Just thinking out loud for solutions. Another BTW - I read that the older Win 10 worked fine but one of the newer updates would also cause BSOD for users of the same motherboard, so it's just a big combination of changes that make it very hard to tell you directly exactly what is causing the BSOD without me being there in person to do my tricks.
No, I didn't try this. I don't have another video card to install into it and there is no onboard video on this mobo at all, so without the video card, I'm stuffed. I do have have other video cards, but they're much older (9x/XP vintage) and don't match the slot size/position so not even possible to physically dodgy insert them to test. I'll try to do this. The computer came to me with two sticks of Kingston KVR1333D3N9K2/4G 4GB (2GB 2Rx8 256M x 64-Bit x 2 pcs.) PC3-10600 CL9 240-Pin DIMM Kit which I still have. I just swapped them out for the G.SKILL RipjawsZ F3-17000CL9Q-16GBZH because I had a brand new packet of that laying around as spare for my main computer. I plugged it in and it worked straight out of the packet with no configuring, so I figured that will do for a 4GB to 16GB RAM upgrade. Both RAM types are double sided though. I have no single sided RAM stick option to try.
Well you have the solutions, but you may not get away with running Windows 10 or 11 on that PC without rectifying the Memory or Graphics card issues (if the disabled hardware in BIOS doesn't help, which it probably wont). You may get away with running an early version of Win 10, but even then if the Graphics is the issue that will still fail. Your stuck with Windows 7 8 or Linux for that PC until things change sorry.
